When you live in a city condo or a homeowner-association development, needing an RV storage area is often a fact of life. Many people in suburbs and cities face parking limits for their RVs as well. Smaller units, like a folding camping trailer or truck camper, can be stored in garages, and a van camper may be kept in the driveway as it resembles a family car. But motor homes and trailers often need to be stored somewhere away from the residence. Outdoor-storage fees average $75 to $100 a month for a 36-foot motor home. Covered or indoor storage can cost twice as much.
When storing the vehicle, do the following:
- Clean and defrost the refrigerator, leave the door open, and put an open box of baking soda inside.
- Disconnect the coach and vehicle battery.
- Empty the holding tanks, leaving a bit of water and deodorizer in the tanks to keep the seals moist. Add 2 gallons of RV antifreeze when you’re storing the vehicle where temperatures fall below 40°F; one surprise hard freeze can do a lot of damage.
- Close the propane-tank valve.
- Draw all the shades and close the windshield curtain to keep the shaded and interior cooler.
- Lock all doors and outside compartments.
- Fill the lead-acid batteries to the top of the split ring with distilled water.
When you store Revolution campervans in a cold climate, drain all the freshwater supply tanks, add some nontoxic RV antifreeze to the black-and gray-water holding tanks after they’ve been emptied and cleaned, empty the water heater, and pump antifreeze into the supply lines to each faucet. If you’re not well versed in doing these jobs, I recommend using the services of a licensed plumber, camping-supply store’s service department, or an RV dealer that offers this winterization service. If the work is done properly, the annual cost of about $200 can save you many costly repairs in the spring.